Author Archives: Fork in the Rhode

Louis Family Restaurant

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While running errands around Providence one morning, a friend suggested breakfast at Louis Family Restaurant on Brooke Street.  It might have been that I had not attended Brown, or had spent a great deal of time on the East Side, or watched it on Food Network, but on that morning I enthusiastically became a “new” customer!

The diner first opened 63 years ago under the management of Louis Gianfrancesco, then a 25-year-old Italian immigrant.  Loui’s Diner is a mainstay to Brown’s faculty and students, as well as a treasured East Side neighbor in the community.

The diner’s décor and personality is a hodge-podge of retro-hippie-counterculture-non conformist sentiment.  It pays homage to all almost anything that is, or was significant during the diner’s multigenerational operation.

Much of the food is scratch-made with attention to detail. We ordered the Drunk Johnny Omelette, (corned beef hash, onions and cheese) with a side of hash browns and rye toast.  The massive omelette arrived piping hot and loaded with flavor. The rye bread was a standout because it was freshly baked and made with fennel seeds. Unconventional maybe, but a terrific addition just the same!  The hash browns should always be ordered well done at Loui’s because that’s where the flavor comes from.

Upon recommendation, we ordered Loui’s impressive fruit bowl.  It was all freshly cut to order and arranged in a such a meticulous manner that anyone could notice quality and presentation are priorities here.

The pumpkin pancakes might have been worth the trip alone. Seasonal food preparation is an excellent way of keeping standard menu items interesting. My only suggestion is that they should offer “real” maple syrup instead of the traditional high fructose corn syrup with caramel coloring. There might be a need for an upcharge, but many would be willing to pay for it. I think that pumpkin pancakes deserve the respect!                    
I read that Louis was “a man who gave generously and charged little for generations of Brown students and staff.”  Louis died in August 1999, leaving the diner in the care of his six children who make sure the diner maintains the same standards its first founder created. Louis would be proud of the way in which the family is lovingly operating the business and preserving the traditions he held so dear.  Rest in peace Mr. Giafrancesco (1922-1999), the restaurant is in excellent hands.

Louis Family Restaurant 286 Brook Street Providence, RI 02906 401-861-5225

Don José Tequilas

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David’s Review

Don José Tequilas

Can we be discerning about Mexican restaurants? I’m beginning to comprehend just how inspiring the Mexican culinary landscape is when chefs artfully combine bright, bold, and fresh ingredients in order to produce dishes that appeal to all five senses.

Having visited Rick Bayless’s outstanding Topolobampo in Chicago and Richard Sandoval’s modern southwestern La Hacienda in Scottsdale, I have come to realize that there is no reason why we should expect any less from Mexican restaurants in our own communities. Fear not taco, burrito, enchilada, and Chimichanga lovers, there are plenty of restaurants ready and willing to serve, but you will have to search in order to find authenticity.

Any true Rhode Islander worth their weight in clam shells will probably remember Casa Lupita with the utmost of fondness. The décor was vibrant, with Mariachi music flowing as effortlessly as the Margaritas, free chips, and salsa. The waitresses in traditional Mexican clothing danced around tables with enormous sizzling platters of semi-traditional fare.  The only people missing from this satisfied dining crowd were the actual Mexican people themselves! They were probably eating in restaurants more likely offering dishes more reminiscent of their childhoods – like at Don José Tequilas.

Don José Tequilas   humbly sits on Atwells Ave without major fanfare. Is it possible that this little Mexican restaurant could share the same city block with the Tortellini Titans of Federal Hill? Well, for starters the restaurant offers a warm and inviting space for which to accommodate an intimate party and/or a larger celebratory one.

Our visit to Don Jose’s was not a premeditated one. I was meeting a friend visiting from Dallas and thought he would appreciate an attempt to quickly find a restaurant that could flex Rhode Island’s Mexican muscle! We ordered the obligatory Margaritas, chips, salsa and guacamole because in my opinion, if a Mexican restaurant can’t impressively deliver on this, it’s downhill from there.

The note-worthy variety of Tequila’s led me to the fact that Don Jose’s Margarita selections are all made with Grand Marnier, Contreau, and fresh lime juice. Sour mix is generally a miserable mixture of water, high fructose corn syrup, citric acid, and artificial coloring. The acidity often burns the back of my throat and luckily, Don Jose’s has the good sense to simply use fresh lime juice, sugar, and water.

When it comes to guacamole, the avocados must be properly ripened in order to achieve the mild flavor and buttery texture. The high fat content gives this fruit an almost creamy consistency. The avocado flesh is prone to enzymatic browning when exposed to air, so it is imperative that guacamole is freshly made in order to preserve the taste and vibrant green color. Don Jose’s guacamole was expertly prepared and served in a Molcajete-type bowl along with homemade and warmed tortilla chips. The salsa, perfectly perfumed with cilantro, provided a moderate back note of heat.

My entrée was Bistec a La Mexicana – grilled and chopped sirloin steak which included peppers, onions, tomatoes, and Guajillo sauce (fresh green tomatillos and Guajillo peppers). This also came with a side of rice and beans. The sirloin was tender, flavorful, and juicy. The peppers and onions were properly cooked to preserve texture and color, and the Guajillo sauce was an enjoyable alternative to the other Chipotle, Mole, or Ranchero type choices. The warmed and freshly made corn tortillas were the perfect side to accompany the meal. The flavorful side of beans could have been brought up to temperature a bit more; the rice however was hot and very moist. Although moist rice sounds trivial, moisture carries flavor. Many Mexican restaurants pay little attention to the rice and beans. Being two staples in Mexican cooking, a lack of attention to these primary accompaniments is lazy.

The overall menu at Don Jose’s offers authenticity in the form of fresh seafood, beef, pork and chicken specialties. Chile pepper varieties such as Poblano, Chipotle Guajillo, as well as sauces like Mole, Tomatillo and tequila-lime should garner your attention when ordering.

Therefore, to answer my own previously posed question – could Don José Tequilas   share the same city block with the Tortellini Titans of Federal Hill? “You’re damn right they can!”

Don José Tequilas 351 Atwells Avenue Providence, RI (401) 454-8951 

King’s Garden 點心

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David’s Review

Well the big secret is out; I’m still in love with Asian cuisine. I’m drawn to it like “white on glutinous rice.” To be more specific, Dim Sum is the elusive meal that remains enigmatic for most locals, and if you’ve not found your way to King’s Garden in Cranston for this experience yet,   grab some non-Asian friends and go because your Asian friends are already there!

Congee is a warm thick rice porridge or soup that is served in many Asian cultures primarily for breakfast, but can be substituted for just about any meal because of the variety of proteins that can be added (i.e. chicken, pork, beef and fish). Anyone who likes oatmeal, cream of wheat or rice cereal would equally appreciate Congee. This Asian comfort food is simple tasting yet terrifically satisfying and an absolute must at King’s Garden because it arrives at the table bubbling in a baked crock, and is the creamiest and most flavorful Congee I’ve ever had.

The Dim Sum menu is extensive and allows diners to check off those small plate dishes (and quantity) he/she desires.  So, in addition to Congee, the Steamed Shrimp Dumplings were fresh, flavorful and perfectly prepared using the delicate dumpling skin that turns translucent when done.  The Steamed Minced Meat Ball reminded me more of Shumai and was also tender, juicy and appetizing.  The Fried Shrimp Balls (3 golf ball sized) were perfectly crispy and non-greasy on the outside with a piping hot and tender shrimp center.  The Steamed Roast Pork Bun (2 per) was worthy of a second order because the freshness of the sweet hot bun coupled with the salty roast pork center was clearly the envy of all the other buns yet to be eaten!  The Chao Chow Dumpling was the stand-out winner during our meal. I really enjoyed trying something new which pairs interesting ingredients and textures together. The dumpling combined chopped taro root, watercress, peanuts, pork and cilantro. I shared a private moment in silence to respectfully honor the glorious “dumpling.”

My only regret is that I have but one stomach to give per meal and was not able to continue my journey down the King’s Garden menu any further. The silver lining to this cloud is that I will thankfully return in order to sample much more in the near future.

The King’s Garden may  be a new Fork in the Rhode for some, but I have a feeling that this place has been lovingly “forked” many times before me…..

King’s Garden 90 Rolfe Street Cranston, RI  401.467.8916