Julian’s Providence

Scott and Dave’s Breakfast on Broadway!

On a weekend day that beckons you outdoors to enjoy the terrific spring weather, there is nothing like a great breakfast to start off the day. Recently the RhodeCrew has been venturing out of our quaint little towns and heading downtown for some eclectic breakfast fare.  On my way to a restaurant in Providence a few weeks ago I couldn’t help but notice what looked like a line for Springsteen tickets (back in the 80’s) forming around an unpretentious store front on Broadway. There weren’t any large signs that distinguished this place aside from two red neon lit “J”s on the left and right sides of the front windows – welcome to Julian’s.

Julian’s Providence is no stranger to the Providence culinary scene as evidenced by their wall of accolades in the back of the dining area.  At Fork in the Rhode we try very hard to find “off the beaten path” places, and at times it can be challenging in our small state. Sometimes we go against our mission statement and review a place that despite its popularity is too tempting to pass up!

Breakfast this morning was a memorable experience. We went right for the bar so we could see all the action in this open kitchen establishment. Having a super-friendly waitperson like Sam was an extra-special treat. We truly appreciated how very engaging, knowledgeable and passionate he was about Julian’s. Having a proud restaurant staff is one of the keys to the success of the business. When going to a new restaurant, we make every effort to request the “Signature” dish or at least one of the house specialties, and if we wind up just an “order taker,” it really takes away from our experience.  We know it’s only a meal, but we like to get pumped up and excited about the incoming, unique gastronomical encounter!  Sam was quite an ambassador for our first Julian’s experience – and we felt fortunate.

Breakfast for Scott today was from the daily Special’s Board – Chipotle Honey-Grilled Shrimp Benedict with baby spinach, smoked onions over warm cornbread with a scallion hollandaise.  Accompanying this dish was a side of Beer Bratwurst Hash which included white beans, Swiss cheese and caramelized onions. The unique spice profile of the shrimp was so unique that I had to reluctantly share them with another RhodeCrew member because flavors this good must be communal. The poached eggs were cooked perfectly, and it was such a nice change to have it served on a bed of fresh-baked cornbread instead of the usual English muffin. This hash was also another unique treat that we doubt you will find anywhere else.

“We smoke our own salmon,” Sam said, as David ordered the Nova Scotia Benedict faster than you could say “lox.” This beautifully smoked and sliced happiness was carefully laid out across freshly thick-cut Italian bread and topped with two perfectly poached eggs with a smooth and creamy hollandaise blanketing it all. Although a plain potato hash accompanies breakfast, he chose the Bleu Cheese-Spinach specialty hash from the menu. The chef starts with the traditional grilled hash and incorporates the specialty ingredients before browning it on all sides. What a winner of a breakfast this turned out to be!

As we watched unique flights of draft beer being ordered with breakfast, we felt a little left out – so we ordered one (yes it was 9:00 AM…don’t judge). On the recommendation of Sam, our flight included the following:

  1.  Saison Dupont (Belgium), a dry blond beer, with aromas of hops, marked bitterness and a bit flowery in taste. Alcohol content: 6.5% vol.
  2.  B.B.C. Imperial Stout (MA), a rich, smooth and creamy malt stout with hints of chocolate, licorice and coffee. Alcohol content: 8.5% vol.
  3.  Schneider-Brooklyner Hopfen-Weisse (Germany), a deep gold dry hopped Weissbock with a light and sweet aroma. The taste was very smooth with hints of citrus, wheat, and fruit.  Alcohol content: 8.2% vol.
  4.  Hofstetten Saphir Bock (Austria), a cloudy golden-yellow dry-hopped beer with a smooth malt flavor. Slight hints of lemon. Alcohol content: 7.4% vol. 

Julian’s offers 20+ globetrotting drafts (Belgium, U.S., Japan, UK, Canada, Germany, Italy, Scotland, Austria and Norway) from which to sample. In addition their extensive bottled beer, wine and other spirits menu is worthy of your interest.   

It has been said that Julian’s Providence is a Hipster hang-out. The RhodeCrew assigned to this restaurant was curious what that meant exactly, so we looked it up:

Hipsters are a subculture of men and women typically in their 20’s and 30’s that value independent thinking, counter-culture, progressive politics, an appreciation of art and indie-rock, creativity, intelligence, and witty banter. 

Our response – we wished we hadn’t wasted our time looking it up! If you are in a “subculture” of eaters seeking out a great food and drinks in a very cool looking restaurant with an attentive and educated staff, get over to Julian’s Providence as soon as entirely possible.

We’re not kidding get your shoes on…..we’ll start the car!

  Julian’s Providence 318 Broadway Providence, RI (401) 861- 1770

The Fortune House 合顺源

David’s Review

Fortune House - Chicken and Shrimp

Okay I’ll admit it, my Achilles’ heel has always been, and may always be –Asian cuisine.  I haven’t even moderately tired of it since childhood. It may have been the lure of the mysteriously dark Polynesian themed restaurants of the 1970’s with all the unfamiliar and glorious aromas wafting under my nose, or the brightly colored entrees and half-moon shaped rice mounds all served neatly under the “stainless steel dome.” Although it was the Western or American Chinese cuisine that initially hooked me, it’s the authentic and more contemporary styles of Asian cookery that feeds my passion.

Fortune House - Wall Art

The American Chinese cuisine is a style of cooking that modifies or adapts authentic Chinese cuisine into dishes more acceptable to the American palate. Why? In the early 19th century the Chinese were excluded from most U.S. jobs in the wage economy by racial discrimination or lack of language fluency. In order to culturally assimilate, the Chinese established their own businesses with products and services that catered to American Society while remaining mindful of their origins. It was genius.

The Fortune House  in Cumberland, RI is a prime example of an Asian Restaurant that respects the  delicate balance of American and Asian cuisine and is amenable to change as the dining public tastes evolve.

Fortune House

Dispensed is the utilitarian tableware and replaced with decorative serving dishes, cast iron tea pots and earthenware table accessories. The menu attempts to focus attention away from heavy sauces and deep-fried entrees by offering flavorful, healthful and creative alternatives. The entrees at The Fortune House lean more towards an authentic Chinese philosophy in cookery  – proteins (i.e. chicken, beef, shrimp) enhance a dish rather than overshadow it.

Poor Zuo Zongtang (1812–1885), a Qing Dynasty general from Hunan whose namesake -General Tsao’s Chicken – is served all over the U.S.  He would have  rolled over in his grave if he knew how he was being memorialized (fried chicken with goopy sweet sauce).  In his defense, the Fortune House does make the dish pretty well!

Fortune House - Chinese Broccoli

One of the most overlooked benefits of the Fortune House is the exceptional value that diners are offered in comparison to the care, complexity and freshness of what is being served. The vegetables are always perfectly blanched to preserve their vibrant color. The proteins are succulent and fresh tasting, and the sauces are light and flavorful. The food is not overly salted and never bathing in the oil from the wok from whence it came.

Fortune House - Tempura

Additionally, Fortune House offers several noteworthy starters that are delicately fried in a light batter; Shrimp, Vegetarian or a Combo Tempura. Their Scallion Pancake is worth the trip alone!

The Fortune House Restaurant  is a spotlessly clean restaurant with restrooms cleaner than the ones in my own home. The ventilation system within the kitchen and the dining room must work efficiently because upon return to the office, my clothes never smell like the lunch I just ate.

Just like you, I too have my local favorite where everybody knows my name. It is the place where I feel most genuinely welcome and consider it to be my restaurant home. Fortune House just makes me happy, and if I had hair, I could let it down there – figuratively!

 

 

Fortune House Restaurant  1800 Mendon Road, Cumberland, RI 02864  Tel: 401-333-9976

The Mews Tavern

Don’s Review – Spirits in the Rhode

Mews Tavern Wakefield, RI

The significance of an original 1947 painting of the “Colonial Man” that graces the walls of the Mews Tavern in Wakefield, RI serves as an important reminder of a New England history responsible for the popularity of our beloved modern day “Pub.”

In the 16th and into the 17th century water was not safe to drink; it was too dirty, so for ordinary/common people drinking ale or beer was essential for nutrients. Only the poorest people drank water. For the colonists, beer and cider were common. For the wealthy wine and brandy were imported. Rum soon became a popular drink in the late 17th century. In the 18th century tea became popular.

Got Beer - Need Beer

The tavern was multifunctional and offered travelers a place to drink and lodge. It would evolve into a neighborhood mainstay that fostered the latest gossip, news, political banter and religious discussion and debates. The tavern was considered a public necessity, and a town that did not maintain one was subject to fine by the General Court.

Mews Tavern Draft

The Mews Tavern is the home of 69 ice cold draughts…or 67 if you happen to order the Peak Organic Winter Session Ale or the Harpoon 100 Barrel Aged Dunkel. Sadly, they were out of these on a recent visit.  Nonetheless, I was treated to a few brews I was excited to try. The standout for me was the Rogue Captain Sigs Deadliest Ale.  This one is comes from their “rare & limited” selection and gets its namesake from Captain Sigs from the Deadliest Catch TV show.  It’s a red ale with good body and color, and is very well balanced. Its mildly citrus hop finish complemented my Rancho Relaxo wood grilled pizza quite nicely. Rogue brewing has been consistently turning out great beer, and if you can find this one, grab it; it’s a top pick. More readily available in stores is Rogue’s Dead Guy Ale, which is a great introduction to the Rogue family of beers.  I also enjoyed the Berkshire Coffeehouse Nitro Porter. This is a great winter beer and drinks well by itself, but would also pair well with stews, soups or BBQ. My wife liked this one too, as she has become quite a fan of darker brews this year.  Tag ordered the Southern Tier Crème Brulee Imperial Milk Stout, which we all tried. Opinions on this were mixed- lots of vanilla, caramel and sweetness in this one.  It would no doubt stand toe to toe with some dark chocolate or perhaps a slice of pecan pie.

With such a large and diverse beer menu, the best way to begin at The Mews is to order a “rack” and choose 4 7oz. beers to try. If you do, any appetizer is only $3 bucks, so you can pair some beer and food on the cheap!

The Sampler Rack - Mews Tavern

The Mews proudly embraces the “Colonial Man’s” model of a traditional New England tavern and how it should serve its community – with the comforts of being among  friends and the freedom to express your news.

Got Beer, anyone?

Mews Tavern. 456 Main St. Wakefield, RI 02879-7408. (401) 783-9370


Tag’s Toilet Talk

It’s not that often when one frequents an eating establishment where there are three floors of food, spirits and song, that there are also bathrooms on all levels.  Greetings from one of the six restrooms in the Mews Tavern in Wakefield; no unisex here, one of each on every floor.

The “Bottom” Level:  The smallest of them all (pardon the pun).  This reminds me of New York City restaurant bathrooms.  I didn’t have a tape measure, but would guess the dimensions to be about 4’x 6’.  I don’t think you could lay a full sheet of plywood down flat on the floor, but don’t let that alarm you because when you can’t wait, it delivers with one Kohler urinal and a Sloan Hands Free Sensor Operated Flushometer.  To keep you from getting bored while standing there is a bulletin board on the wall just above the urinal at eye level.  The reading contents should be of no significance because in that position, you’d be happy to read graffiti if it were in front of you. The sink was small but adequate, and a FULL liquid soap dispenser was in proximity to the sink.  So many times the soap just isn’t “right there”.  And the big payoff – HOT running water.  There was a Tork Auto Paper Towel dispenser that was actually filled with a large roll of paper, and a large waste basket for the used paper towel 2-point toss.   The room was well lit, and the door actually locked!   Clean, very nice aroma due in part to the auto spray sanitizer located on the wall high off the floor.  Upon exiting, I happened to notice that right next to me the ladies room with the door open, so “what the heck,”  I quickly ducked in and did a quick scan only to notice the only difference between the men’s room and ladies room on this floor was a toilet in “hers” rather than a urinal in “his”.  I rate these two Bottom Level bathrooms 3 ½ TP rolls out of 5!

The Middle Level:  Two Hands Free Sensor Operated Flushometer urinals with two stalls (one of which was accessible).  Once again the bulletin board with “Mews News” over the two urinals for passing the time – especially appreciated if your enlarged prostate dictates a longer than normal flow-time.  One urinal was at regular adult height while the other was lower for accessibility. Additionally a stainless steel divider in place between the urinals to protect those that turn towards each other when talking and peeing.  The smaller of the stalls lock, two locks to be exact, did not latch properly, either of them.  So you know what that means…… just when you thought it was safe to sit, BAM, the door flies open and who is more embarrassed, you or him?  The stalls had a double TP roll dispenser, and both rolls were full and intact.  Both toilets were manual flush, but here is the BONUS!  These toilets had to have the most powerful flushing power I have ever seen short of the power boost flush toilets.  If you were sitting and your shirt tail was hanging in the water when you flushed, you might get pulled in yourself.  “I can’t wait to get to the upper floor to see if the power will be the same”.  Also, this stall had adequate lighting for reading, just in case you are inclined to take down an article from the bulletin board over the urinals and indulge while you sit.  The main part of this large bathroom had a diaper deck attached to the wall.  It was clean and functional.  Good size sink, liquid soap dispenser, a hand feed paper towel dispenser and good size trash can.  The floor was clean and a fire alarm was noted on the ceiling.  I rate this Middle Level bathroom 4 TP rolls.

The Top Level:  With only one stall on this level, the Kohler toilet had a commercial elongated open front toilet seat.  I immediately went for the flush, and yes, it was the power of Niagara Falls all over again.  I swear if you were sitting and flushed, you might confuse the backsplash as bidet seating – you’d get soaked from all this power!  Piped in music with stainless steel walls and door, with a lock that worked.  There was plenty of room surrounding the toilet, so there was no fear that your knees would touch the sidewalls while sitting.  Two huge TP rolls of paper in the dispenser.  The paper, however, did not seem to have the width as a normal TP roll, and the quality was a little thin, but it was double-ply to give the user piece-of-mind.  Again, two urinals with the bulletin board over them.  In the main area, there was tile on the walls; the floor was clean and dry.  There was a wall mounted stainless soap dispenser, and once again, it was full.  The sink was adequate and the paper towels were full.  There was adequate lighting and again a pleasant smell of air sanitizer.  I rate this Top Level bathroom 4 TP rolls.