Lemongrass

Dave’s Review —

The variety in Asian cuisine and the complexity of ingredients are flourishing in Rhode Island! It is a bold and often daring decision for a restaurateur to invest in a business that will offer unfamiliar tastes and textures to an otherwise naïve palate.

Due to the fact that people generally gravitate to “all things familiar and safe,” (i.e. clothes that make us look thinner, the same office parking spot, supermarkets, gas stations, and of course – restaurant menus) when a change is upon us, we all tend to approach it with trepidation similar to that which my cat experiences when she realizes that I moved the house plant to a different spot in the living room!

We can all remember Chinese restaurants offering Italian bread in take-out orders, and french fries as the menu alternative to white rice. The last time I checked, an authentic Chinese pantry purposefully omitted these starches. The practice of including some familiar with the unfamiliar may have been due to an  owner’s concern of losing customers to other local restaurants.

Lemongrass Asian Bistro in Warwick offers a contemporary menu of Chinese, Vietnamese and Thai dishes cooked in healthful manner. The space is modern, bright and artfully designed. The restaurant is divided in two seating areas which include a full sushi bar on one side and a regular bar on the other.

The dishes are skillfully prepared using fresh ingredients, reduced sodium and limited amounts of cooking oil.

Chris’s Review —

What can you say about Pad Thai?  It is the Thai version of Bolognese.  Every restaurant seems to offer their take on this tasty import.  Fine Asian establishments such as the “Cheesecake Factory” love to incorporate it into their Asian section of their menu in order to satisfy the consumer that may enter the gigantic eatery and think “Mmmm, I bet the Pad Thai is delicious here.”

Ok, call me a Pad Thai snob.  I’m sorry; but in order to satisfy my insecurities with respect to authenticity, I have to eat Pad Thai from a restaurant that offers multiple Thai-influenced selections. Fortunately, “Lemongrass” in Warwick met the rigid standards that I require to try the tasty dish.

Located on Post Road, Lemongrass offers a multi-Asian mix of Thai, Vietnamese, and Cantonese plus a full Sushi menu to boot.  Often, these multi-faceted menus can overwhelm a customer leading to sensory overload.  However, in my dining experience I tend to lean-to the Thai or Vietnamese, because I think that these dishes tend to be the most authentic at these types of establishments.

The crew and I made our recommendations and selections.  I chose the Vietnamese Beebong with Beef to start which we all shared.  Beebong is a rice noodle salad served with thin warm noodles and cool crisp veggies (Cilantro, Napa Cabbage, Bean Sprouts and Mint). A dollop of coconut milk and a peanut dressing finish off the dish.  Lemongrass’ version was solid allowing the perfectly cooked noodles and the fresh veggies to shine through.  The crunch of the peanuts added a nice contrast to the dish, as well.

For the main course, you guessed it “Pad Thai”.   Pad Thai  is a dish of stir-fried rice noodles with eggs, fish sauce, tamarind juice, red chili pepper and usually garnished with bean sprouts crushed peanuts and lime with your choice of meat or tofu.   Lemongrass offered all varieties (Beef, Chicken, Pork, Veggie and Seafood, Combination).  I chose the combination version of the dish and was not disappointed.  Unlike the traditional Pad Thai dishes that I have enjoyed, Lemongrass’ version used a thin rice noodle instead of the typical medium width variety.  The balance of flavor that the dish delivered was enough for me to get over the lack of noodle width.  The dish was so good that I called my wife and ordered her a take out version of the same dish.  After all, she was the one who first introduced me to the dish with her delicious homemade, labor intensive take on the dish twelve years ago.  She enjoyed every bite.  Lemongrass will see us again!

Scott’s Review —

How many times have you driven by an Asian restaurant: Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai, Japanese, etc., and wondered if it could stand up to your favorite place? There are so many to choose from but like creatures of habit you probably have no more than 4 of these Asian restaurants on your rotation list. As a typical Rhode Islander, traveling out of your comfort zone probably doesn’t happen that much…unless   you are a seasoned traveler or a FITR staff member!

A friend of friend, of another friend, tipped us off to the Lemongrass Asian Bistro in Warwick. When a person with Thai roots recommends a Thai restaurant, the advice is not to be taken lightly.

This restaurant is situated in an unassuming mini strip plaza on Rt. 1 just a couple of miles north of  T.F. Green Airport in Warwick. The interior is very nicely appointed. Nice flashy bar with large flat screen TV, nice booths and tables. The other side features the sushi bar with more table and booth seating. Again, very modern, tastefully decorated and clean.

Let’s get right down to business…the food! We chose a few Thai and Vietnamese staples along with one sushi roll. I couldn’t resist the sushi. How could one resist a name like the “Ocean State Roll”?

The combination Pad Thai was delicious. What I liked about this dish were the components. How many times have you ordered Pad Thai, or any other Asian dish only to have very small pieces of chicken, pork, meat and shrimp thrown in. Not the case with Lemongrass’s Pad Thai. The shrimp is a very impressive size for the dish – not the canned “salad” size you see many times over. The other proteins were all nicely sized too. The dish came with a generous coating of crushed peanuts for those of you who like lots of peanuts. All of the ingredients made this Thai staple one of the best dishes in our lunch. We agreed it ranked tops in many of the Asian restaurants we have collectively tried over the years.

My choice was the Double Cooked Pork. Anything with “double” in it causes me to take notice.  Again – loved the ingredients. No small pieces of pork in this dish -tender chunks of pork in a appetizing dark sauce. The other ingredients: cabbage, peppers and mushrooms were prepared well too. The crunchy cabbage had a nice synergy with all the other fresh ingredients.

A few other notes on my experience with the other dishes:

Beef Bee Bong – Everything worked in it! I really didn’t want to share this dish, but I did manage to keep a low profile on my multiple servings. When a dish is at its end portion, I always like to jump in and say, “Would anyone like any more of this dish?” My translation is actually… “Look, I’m polishing this off – no way is this going in a take-out container so stand clear!” I’m sure my friends are on to my maneuvers.

Nime Chow – I always like to sample this app. Many of you know what it is – in a nut shell it is kind of like an un-fried spring roll. This version included the rice wrapper, bean sprouts, rice noodles, basil and small shrimp served with a clear, light peanut sauce. It was fresh and tasty  – on par with many good ones I have had at Thai restaurants.

Green Curry Shrimp – We pulled this out of the Combination Plates section (C28-it had the red chili pepper icon for spicy). The dish had a top rating for appearance. The ingredients (big shrimp, green beans, herb – possibly basil) were also very fresh and delicious, however, the unique green sauce failed to yield the curry flavor. We hope this was an anomaly and we were confident if we had pointed this out to the waitress, she would have made us another portion. We were just having too much fun with the other dishes.

Ocean State Roll – had to order this one as I doubted I would find this out of state. Inside: Alaskan King Crab, avocado, cucumber. Outside: pepper tuna and mango sauce. Presentation and appearance were right up there with many top dedicated sushi houses. All the ingredients were top notch, fresh and it worked very well. I was pleasantly surprised. I am always skeptical of multi-Asian cuisine restaurants pulling off the variety of regional cuisines under one roof. In future visits to Lemongrass I will be sure to dig deeper into the Japanese/sushi offerings.

In closing,  I can say with confidence that if you are in the “hood,” dropping off or picking someone up at PVD, pull out and take a right on Rt. 1, drive a couple of miles north where you will find the grass is greener at the Lemongrass Asian Bistro!

Tag’s Review –

We arrived at noonish, and were one of the first customers for a lovely Sunday afternoon delight.

Cambodian, Hunan, Chinese, Vietnamese, Cantonese, Thai, Shanghai, Singapore!  What does all this mean to the American pallet?

In the case of Lemongrass Asian Bistro, it means all around good food, no matter from which region it hales or what you call it.

Let’s take for example the Bee Boong dishes.  We chose the Beef Bee Boong this day, and I must tell you, there was no shortage of peanut topping or peanut sauce with this dish.  I happen to really like the peanut flavor and crunchiness of the abundance of ground peanuts that came on top of this very generous dish.  Now you might say I was already influenced because I like all the peanuts and peanut flavors, and you’re probably right, there was a soft spot for me with this dish.  But, looking beyond that, the dish was ‘fresh”, flavorful, “worthy”, but most importantly, delicious.

Moving on to the Pad Thai Noodle Combination dish, for $8.25, take the family and let them have at it! The Noodles were perfectly cooked. “Al Dente” if I might say so myself.  Go figure, we’re at an Asian Bistro in Warwick, RI, and the noodles came out as if my mother cooked them on any given Sunday afternoon.  I would expect this if we were dining up “The Hill”, but this is Asian Cuisine!  Are Asian noodles supposed to be Al Dente?

The Pad Thai Combination dish contained shrimp, chicken, pork, veggies, maybe even the kitchen sink, I’m not sure, nor do I care!  It was delicious.  And then top this dish with the Ground Peanuts & Sauce, we have a winner!

1138 Post Road Warwick RI 02888-3256
Tel: 401-941-1388


Tag’s Toilet Talk

It goes without being said, that the most wonderful dining experience can become such a so so experience if “the end” is disappointing.

You won’t be disappointed with “the finish” at Lemongrass Asian Bistro.  The men’s room was very spacious and very clean.   The single stall was equally spacious with a large door to accommodate a wheel chair and had plenty of grab bars around the seat.   The seat was elongated for comfort, and had the bonus of the almighty “air power flush”!  The double urinals were generously spaced between them so you could stand there without worry of “bumping” into the gent standing next to you.  When I went to wash my hands, there was no “over splash” on the counter around the double sinks.  Like the urinals, the two sinks had plenty of elbow room between them.  The floor around the sink area was also dry and clean.  Bathroom Rating:  3.5 out of 5 TP rolls!

D

Silver Crystal

Dave’s Review–

As long as the culinary community is giving international praise for the cuisine made available to us here at home, let’s not forget a “heartfelt” thank you to the Canton region of China for the introduction of Dim Sum into our neighborhood.

Dim Sum is very closely interwoven with the Chinese tradition of “yum cha” or drinking tea. Historically, tea houses became an integral cultural component necessary in accommodating exhausted travelers journeying along the famous Silk Road. As tea’s medicinal ability to aid in digestion became more widely accepted, tea house’s began offering a variety of small plate snacks, and the tradition of dim sum was born.

In the West, dim sum came about as a natural result of 19th century Chinese immigrants – most of whom were from the Canton region – settling on the East and West coasts. Some believe that dim sum inspired the whole idea of “brunch” – combining breakfast and lunch into one large midmorning meal.

Traditional Dim Sum restaurants offer patrons a series of rolling steam carts designed to bring an extensive array of authentic dishes to them. As carts rolled by, diners could see and smell their options as well as ask questions before deciding on any small plate. Today, many restaurants have dispensed with the cart system. Instead, menus and pencils are provided so diners can mark off their selections and quantities. The food is still served at the table in steamer baskets to keep it warm.

In keeping with the contemporary style of Dim Sum service, we welcome Silver Crystal in West Warwick to the party! That’s right, you heard correctly, Dim Sum in West Warwick. The days of chicken fingers in a neon red sweet and sour sauce with canned pineapple and maraschino cherries may be a fleeting memory.

With twelve people at our table and a plethora of dishes ranging from steamed shrimp dumplings to fried chicken dumplings to steamed barbecue pork buns to congee (rice porridge), we sampled for hours. The dishes were all served freshly prepared, steaming hot and incredibly flavorful. The best thing about ordering dim sum is that each plate averages in cost from $2.85 to $4.25. This will allow you the freedom to try many things without the worry of getting stuck with an  entrée that you don’t like.

Three cheers for Silver Crystal and Dim Sum in Rhode Island. You saved me a trip to Boston!

Scott’s Review–

One of the ongoing hot discussions we have over here at Fork in the Rhode is what to review and what not to review. Our big thing is to seek out the less recognized, out-of the way, off-the-grid places that make Rhode Island unique and special when it comes to culinary adventures.

When David called to tip me off of a dim sum place in our backyard, I got very excited. When he told me the Providence Journal recently reviewed it, I sunk back in my chair. But then I thought about dim sum again and having to travel to Boston or New York to get authentic dishes. I then strategically planned a drive-by… code name: Operation Try Sum dim sum on the Run. I ordered just 2 dishes off the dim sum menu: Shrimp Dumplings and Pea Pod Leaf dumplings. For the kids, the usual beef teriyaki and plain chicken wings. When I got home I was really struck on how tender the steamed dumplings were. The rice wrapper was extremely fresh. The wrapper did exactly what it was supposed to do: deliver the goods to my palate! And boy did it ever. The Pea Pod Leaf dumplings were just as good with the pea pod leaves giving a whole new flavor profile to a steamed dumpling. The surprise of the feast went to (believe it or not) the beef teriyaki. One of the most tender (not the usual dried out, chewy type) and flavorful appetizers.

Rhode Crew member David soon mobilized an emergency Fork in the Rhode review with some special guests that are very familiar to the world of dim sum. Soon after we arrived we were escorted to a large table. What was really nice about this review session was that I truly felt like a guest as I sat back to listen and watch the ordering taking place in a Chinese dialect unbeknownst to me. Very exciting! Soon after the ordering took place, the table started to fill up with dim sum. The dim sum never stopped coming. Dish after dish, I thought I would have to call for a  replacement pair of chopsticks!

If I were to review every dish we ate, this review would be very long and time-consuming. Considering what I get paid for being a contributor and founding member of Fork in the Rhode, I should have written one, short paragraph for the review 😉 Anyway, after the meal ended several observations were made:

  • I’ll never have to drive to Boston again for great Dim Sum
  • Pinch me…is this really West Warwick?
  • Yes the steamed shrimp and pea pod leaf dumplings are that good!
  • And the beef teriyaki is to die for too!
  • The chicken feet are still a great mystery to me but put me in a Dim Sum moment and Andrew Zimmern has nothing over me!
  • More on those Chicken Feet…the group did say there could have been more flavor or spice to compliment the dish.
  • Great assortment of dim sum. Although there aren’t dim sum carts rolling around like you would find in some big Chinatown districts, you can count on some extremely fresh, made to order dim sum that will send you straight to Shangri-La .

My recommendation to you… head over to the Silver Crystal. Go right for the Dim Sum menu or skip through the traditional “American” Chinese food entrees in the regular menu and head for the back to the “Chinese Special” dishes. Order and then sit back and let your taste buds take you away to another world.

Tag’s Review–

When my fellow Rhode Crew members Dave and Scott said “lets go for Dim Sum”, my first reaction was to get ready for a trip to Boston for an afternoon “delight”.  To my surprise, Dave mentioned that there he had heard a few good things about a place for Dim Sum right in West Warwick.  Being curious, we all said we’d give it a try.  Little did I know at the time that Dave had invited some guests to dine with us, and not just for a quick Saturday lunch, but rather to make an afternoon of it.  And an afternoon it was.  He had invited his good friend Yiguang and his wife Ying. Yiquang is originally from the Canton Region of China and his wife from Bejing. Additionally, they brought along some of their friends to help us navigate through the extended Dim Sum menu. The afternoon food fest was about to begin.

The ‘party’ started the moment we walked through the door where we were graciously greeted by the owner of the Silver Crystal Chinese Restaurant. From that moment on, I was only a “guest”!  It was like they took us into their home and meticulously prepared everything from scratch, and served us with the utmost of care.  The ordering was done by one of Dave’s friends, and I tell you the food did not stop coming for two hours straight.  I never picked up the menu.  To give you an idea of how much food there was, the round table we were seated at was a large round table, with a super large lazy susan in the middle which was about five feet in diameter, giving each one of us about one foot of table space around the perimeter of the table.  The lazy susan could not fit all the food.   In fact, we filled the lazy susan twice over.

The Dim Sum was so plentiful I lost count of how many dishes we had.  My best guess was there had to be about 20 different plates ranging from the Fried Chicken Dumpling (one of my favorites), to the excellently prepared Fried Pepper Salt Shrimp; and I swear there was Fried Calamari on the table, although I can’t find it on the menu as I write this review, to the Steamed BBQ Pork Bun, and the very different, but very tasty, Pan Fried Turnip Cake (another favorite of mine).

From the owner, to the wait staff, to the restaurant itself, “Crystal” is truly a gem right in West Warwick.  This is a keeper!

Silver Crystal – 289 Cowesett Avenue West Warwick, RI 02893 (401) 822-1818


Tag’s Toilet Talk : Large, well-lit, clean, fresh smelling, elongated toilet seat (with lid), big sink, two types of soap, well stocked paper towel machine; and yes, hot water.  A bathroom you won’t be afraid to enter and use. I rate this bathroom 3½ (out of 5) T.P. rolls!


Oasis Grill

Dave’s Review–

Have you met Sammy yet? If not, it might be about time you did!

How could all this ethnically diverse and delectable cuisine be available in our own backyard, and yet we still remain surprised that crossing state line in search of culinary satisfaction is unnecessary? The answer is simple…..open your eyes, pay attention and see your community as a family that has as much to offer as you have to give.

The Oasis Grill is a relatively new Middle Eastern restaurant that stands proudly on Broad Street. The establishment houses a lounge, two dining rooms, a take-out window, and a market for fresh meat, produce, bakery/breads and authentic Middle Eastern dry goods.

Our appetizers included a Falafel Plate ($5.49) and the Starter Combo ($6.95) – Hummus, Baba Ghannoush, Tabouli with a side of pita. The falafel arrive piping hot, perfectly fried and full of flavor. The hummus was smooth, rich and topped with a small pool of olive oil in the center. The baba ghannoush was smokey and slightly tangy the way my grandmother used to make it!  The tabouli was freshly prepared and excellent. In case you’ve missed my subtle references, order the appetizers!

On the recommendation of our server Tebeah, we tried a chicken and rice dish with Mulukhiyah (mo-la-he-ya). This green vegetable (similar to a chopped spinach with garlic and coriander) is commonly used in Middle-Eastern, mainly Egyptian cuisine and was quite good. Additionally, we ordered the Oasis Shish Combo ($13.99) which included a skewer of lamb, a skewer of tawook (chicken)  and a skewer of kafta (ground beef and lamb). The lamb was the standout winner here. The meat was flavorful, moist and cooked medium rare.  The white meat chicken shish had some heat and a good spice profile, but was not moist enough. The kafka was my least favorite shish because it was very dry. Honestly, if both the chicken and the kafka had been grilled for less time, they would have both been winners too! The combo platter did come with a delicious and freshly made cucumber yogurt sauce for dipping. Finally, we ordered a chicken Shawarma; cut it up and share with friends, they’ll have a whole new respect for you.

So who is Sammy? He’s the hospitable owner of the Oasis Grille. He introduced himself within 5 minutes of us being sat. He recommended the food we ordered, assisted in the preparation, and poured us our Turkish coffee at the end of our meal.

Although it’s supposed to be “all about the food,” it’s also about the experiences and the people you meet along the way, and on this day, it was both. I love this gig!

Chris’s Review

Like a lost shepherd seeking out water in the desert, I found my oasis for the perfect taste of the Middle East in RI.  That would be the Oasis Café, Grill and Market on Broad St in Providence.  After perusing the menu, we decided to start with the trio of hummus, tabouli and baba ghanoush with a side of falafel.  The falafel was fried to perfection on the outside and moist and well-seasoned in the center. I enjoyed spreading the hummus, tabouli and baba ghanoush all over the fresh-baked Syrian bread making a falafel sandwich that would woo even the finickiest of palates.  The freshness of each individual item came through and got me ready for the next round of goodness.

All I have to say is “Fear the Shawarma!!”  I don’t mean that in a negative way either.  A Shawarma is a “sandwich-like wrap of shaved lamb, goat, chicken, turkey or beef.  The meat is placed on a spit, and may be grilled for as long as a day. Chunks of fat within the meat ensure that the shawarma stays juicy”.   Oasis offered a Chicken Shawarma on flat Syrian Bread with lettuce, tomato, pickles and delicious garlic spread to top it off.  After one bite, I feared that I may devour another one on my ride home leaving a mess on my floor boards.  The crispness of the veggies and the unique flavor of the imported, Mediterranean pickles provided a tasty backdrop for the slow-roasted goodness of the chicken.  The right touch of garlic sauce was a perfect compliment to the sandwich, as well.

I didn’t think I could enjoy lunch more until we decided to hit the “Hookah Bar”.  The flavored tobacco filtered through a lemon and the water of a beautifully designed hookah was a relaxing way to finish off a great meal.

I couldn’t resist a shot of high-powered Turkish coffee, as well.  The owner Sammy was a gracious host and took time to enjoy the Hookah with our table as we took innocent but potentially incriminating pictures of ourselves blowing out massive amounts of “perfectly legal” tobacco smoke.  I left the Oasis buzzed and ready for my next trip back to this Middle Eastern gem.

Scott’s Review–

The shawarma. Don’t be afraid to say it.  All you have to do is add “sh” to “warmer.” If you’re a native Rhode Islander or have been assimilated here for many years,  you naturally won’t pronounce the “r” at the end of “warmer” and it will sound perfect. Now say it…ah yes…that’s it!

You never forget your first shawarma…

Or at least I never did. I was traveling with a sales rep up in Toronto in the mid-90’s. For lunch the rep said, “Let’s go for a shawarma!” Say what??? And that is how my affair started with the shawarma. Years would pass before I would see another shawarma. This time it was in Nuremburg, Germany at an international trade show. It was late night and the town was still a buzz in nightlife. After moving from street vendor to street vendor we landed at a store front. This is all I remember…someone shouted “Shawarma!!” That was all I needed to hear. I walked briskly into the open shop and that is when it happened. My face, (nose first), then body, slammed smack in the middle of a patio plate glass sliding door! Luckily it must have been premium grade tempered glass made in Germany because it didn’t shatter. I bounced right off it! There were witnesses to this event and it was one of those “what happens on the road, stays on the road” moments. We all laughed for what seemed like an eternity only to pause to bite into our shawarmas! I have to tell you…it was either the beer from BarFusser or a special top secret German glass cleaner that made that plate glass slider invisible.

I am going to cite, all most verbatim from Wikipedia. My goal here is to bring you up to speed on all things  “shawarma“…

Shawarma (Arabic: شاورما‎), is a Middle Eastern and Southeastern European sandwich-like wrap of shaved lamb, goat, chicken, turkey, beef, or a halal mixture of meats. The meat is placed on a spit, and may be grilled for as long as a day. Chunks of fat within the meat ensure that the shawarma stays juicy. Shawarma is a fast-food staple across the Middle East and North Africa.

Shawarma is eaten with pita bread, tabouli, fattoush, taboon bread, tomato and cucumber. Toppings include tahini, hummus, pickled turnips and amba.

Shawarma is a version of döner kebab and is thus similar to gyros.

The word shawarma comes from the Turkish word çevirme, meaning turning.

You shawarma, I shawarma…everybody shawarmas…

Check this image out – unbelievable!! According to the Wikipedia entry on shawarmas , the shawarma has over 36 variations and almost as many spellings. It appears to be on every major continent throughout the world. We’re not talking your everyday , ho-hum sandwich wrap here people. The shawarma is truly a global phenomenon.

If the food at the Oasis wasn’t enough to satisfy your craving and quest for a great local taste of the Mediterranean and Middle East, then doing a hookah should complete the experience!! I was blown (actually “inhaled”) away by this first time encounter. All I will say is this…after you eat, tell Sammy to set you up with a hookah!

Full belly, passing the hookah, Middle Eastern music playing in the background…truly an Oasis to be treasured.  Boy do I love this state!

Oasis Grill is at 220 Broad Street Providence, RI 02903 401-228-6333 –