Author Archives: Fork in the Rhode

Oasis Grill

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Dave’s Review–

Have you met Sammy yet? If not, it might be about time you did!

How could all this ethnically diverse and delectable cuisine be available in our own backyard, and yet we still remain surprised that crossing state line in search of culinary satisfaction is unnecessary? The answer is simple…..open your eyes, pay attention and see your community as a family that has as much to offer as you have to give.

The Oasis Grill is a relatively new Middle Eastern restaurant that stands proudly on Broad Street. The establishment houses a lounge, two dining rooms, a take-out window, and a market for fresh meat, produce, bakery/breads and authentic Middle Eastern dry goods.

Our appetizers included a Falafel Plate ($5.49) and the Starter Combo ($6.95) – Hummus, Baba Ghannoush, Tabouli with a side of pita. The falafel arrive piping hot, perfectly fried and full of flavor. The hummus was smooth, rich and topped with a small pool of olive oil in the center. The baba ghannoush was smokey and slightly tangy the way my grandmother used to make it!  The tabouli was freshly prepared and excellent. In case you’ve missed my subtle references, order the appetizers!

On the recommendation of our server Tebeah, we tried a chicken and rice dish with Mulukhiyah (mo-la-he-ya). This green vegetable (similar to a chopped spinach with garlic and coriander) is commonly used in Middle-Eastern, mainly Egyptian cuisine and was quite good. Additionally, we ordered the Oasis Shish Combo ($13.99) which included a skewer of lamb, a skewer of tawook (chicken)  and a skewer of kafta (ground beef and lamb). The lamb was the standout winner here. The meat was flavorful, moist and cooked medium rare.  The white meat chicken shish had some heat and a good spice profile, but was not moist enough. The kafka was my least favorite shish because it was very dry. Honestly, if both the chicken and the kafka had been grilled for less time, they would have both been winners too! The combo platter did come with a delicious and freshly made cucumber yogurt sauce for dipping. Finally, we ordered a chicken Shawarma; cut it up and share with friends, they’ll have a whole new respect for you.

So who is Sammy? He’s the hospitable owner of the Oasis Grille. He introduced himself within 5 minutes of us being sat. He recommended the food we ordered, assisted in the preparation, and poured us our Turkish coffee at the end of our meal.

Although it’s supposed to be “all about the food,” it’s also about the experiences and the people you meet along the way, and on this day, it was both. I love this gig!

Chris’s Review

Like a lost shepherd seeking out water in the desert, I found my oasis for the perfect taste of the Middle East in RI.  That would be the Oasis Café, Grill and Market on Broad St in Providence.  After perusing the menu, we decided to start with the trio of hummus, tabouli and baba ghanoush with a side of falafel.  The falafel was fried to perfection on the outside and moist and well-seasoned in the center. I enjoyed spreading the hummus, tabouli and baba ghanoush all over the fresh-baked Syrian bread making a falafel sandwich that would woo even the finickiest of palates.  The freshness of each individual item came through and got me ready for the next round of goodness.

All I have to say is “Fear the Shawarma!!”  I don’t mean that in a negative way either.  A Shawarma is a “sandwich-like wrap of shaved lamb, goat, chicken, turkey or beef.  The meat is placed on a spit, and may be grilled for as long as a day. Chunks of fat within the meat ensure that the shawarma stays juicy”.   Oasis offered a Chicken Shawarma on flat Syrian Bread with lettuce, tomato, pickles and delicious garlic spread to top it off.  After one bite, I feared that I may devour another one on my ride home leaving a mess on my floor boards.  The crispness of the veggies and the unique flavor of the imported, Mediterranean pickles provided a tasty backdrop for the slow-roasted goodness of the chicken.  The right touch of garlic sauce was a perfect compliment to the sandwich, as well.

I didn’t think I could enjoy lunch more until we decided to hit the “Hookah Bar”.  The flavored tobacco filtered through a lemon and the water of a beautifully designed hookah was a relaxing way to finish off a great meal.

I couldn’t resist a shot of high-powered Turkish coffee, as well.  The owner Sammy was a gracious host and took time to enjoy the Hookah with our table as we took innocent but potentially incriminating pictures of ourselves blowing out massive amounts of “perfectly legal” tobacco smoke.  I left the Oasis buzzed and ready for my next trip back to this Middle Eastern gem.

Scott’s Review–

The shawarma. Don’t be afraid to say it.  All you have to do is add “sh” to “warmer.” If you’re a native Rhode Islander or have been assimilated here for many years,  you naturally won’t pronounce the “r” at the end of “warmer” and it will sound perfect. Now say it…ah yes…that’s it!

You never forget your first shawarma…

Or at least I never did. I was traveling with a sales rep up in Toronto in the mid-90’s. For lunch the rep said, “Let’s go for a shawarma!” Say what??? And that is how my affair started with the shawarma. Years would pass before I would see another shawarma. This time it was in Nuremburg, Germany at an international trade show. It was late night and the town was still a buzz in nightlife. After moving from street vendor to street vendor we landed at a store front. This is all I remember…someone shouted “Shawarma!!” That was all I needed to hear. I walked briskly into the open shop and that is when it happened. My face, (nose first), then body, slammed smack in the middle of a patio plate glass sliding door! Luckily it must have been premium grade tempered glass made in Germany because it didn’t shatter. I bounced right off it! There were witnesses to this event and it was one of those “what happens on the road, stays on the road” moments. We all laughed for what seemed like an eternity only to pause to bite into our shawarmas! I have to tell you…it was either the beer from BarFusser or a special top secret German glass cleaner that made that plate glass slider invisible.

I am going to cite, all most verbatim from Wikipedia. My goal here is to bring you up to speed on all things  “shawarma“…

Shawarma (Arabic: شاورما‎), is a Middle Eastern and Southeastern European sandwich-like wrap of shaved lamb, goat, chicken, turkey, beef, or a halal mixture of meats. The meat is placed on a spit, and may be grilled for as long as a day. Chunks of fat within the meat ensure that the shawarma stays juicy. Shawarma is a fast-food staple across the Middle East and North Africa.

Shawarma is eaten with pita bread, tabouli, fattoush, taboon bread, tomato and cucumber. Toppings include tahini, hummus, pickled turnips and amba.

Shawarma is a version of döner kebab and is thus similar to gyros.

The word shawarma comes from the Turkish word çevirme, meaning turning.

You shawarma, I shawarma…everybody shawarmas…

Check this image out – unbelievable!! According to the Wikipedia entry on shawarmas , the shawarma has over 36 variations and almost as many spellings. It appears to be on every major continent throughout the world. We’re not talking your everyday , ho-hum sandwich wrap here people. The shawarma is truly a global phenomenon.

If the food at the Oasis wasn’t enough to satisfy your craving and quest for a great local taste of the Mediterranean and Middle East, then doing a hookah should complete the experience!! I was blown (actually “inhaled”) away by this first time encounter. All I will say is this…after you eat, tell Sammy to set you up with a hookah!

Full belly, passing the hookah, Middle Eastern music playing in the background…truly an Oasis to be treasured.  Boy do I love this state!

Oasis Grill is at 220 Broad Street Providence, RI 02903 401-228-6333 –

AJ’s Restaurant

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Scott’s Review–

I am going to be honest with you. I recommended that the RhodeCrew should review this place. It just goes to show you how a “find” can be right under your nose, and if you’re not one to try restaurants off the beaten path, treasures like AJ’s can be missed. I think one of the reason’s I hesitated for so long in stopping by AJ’s was its location. It is kind of in an area where many vacant store fronts currently reside – the patch of Main Street between the “strip” in downtown West Warwick and Route 117.

Freshly baked muffins! Freshly baked “anything” for that matter, has me at first bite. Once you walk into AJ’s for breakfast, you will feel like you are at the epicenter for breakfast in West Warwick. Recently I have been attracted by anything pistachio. When I learned of their pistachio muffins, I went nuts. There’s nothing like the taste of a freshly baked & then grilled muffin in the morning…it tastes like….victory??

Anyway, here is what gets my orange juices flowing in the morning….grilled, I repeat, GRILLED home fries. If I walk into a breakfast joint and their home fries are deep fried, it’s a deal killer. The grilled home fry is a work of art and in certain areas in the country, they are about to be added to the endangered species list. This is why I love those Jersey diners…you never know what kind of grilled home fry concoction you’ll be served –but it will be good and grilled. AJ’s does a great job of preserving the art of the home fry. Slap on some ketchup and if that is all I eat for breakfast, I am content. Doing the low-carb thing? Great, hand over your home fries and enjoy your plain egg whites!

Lately, I have been real picky about my omelet’s color. I prefer my omelets yellow as in “scrambled egg” yellow. I don’t like it when an omelet shows up on my plate like it didn’t put on any sunscreen after a hot sunny day at Scarborough Beach. I requested my omelet “yellow” and it showed up yellow.

Poached eggs – here’s another deal killer. If you fork a poached egg whether it is Benedict or solo, there better be a lava flow of yolk immediately following. AJ’s has consistently nailed this often overlooked detail on poached eggs.

AJ’s employs the team approach in serving you. You may be initially served by one waitress but by the end of the meal, almost every waitress will have made it over to your table with one thing or the other. I will warn you…they will drown you in fresh brewed coffee. I ha d to eventually put the jelly tray on top of my coffee cup to let them know I didn’t need a refill after attempt #5!

David’s Review–

AJ’s Restaurant is an example of what every town needs…a local breakfast joint where the menu is as straightforward and unpretentious as its staff.  I had a feeling this might be a special place when I first walked into a busy AJ’s for breakfast one morning and could tell that the only person who had not been there before was me!  If this revelation should ever strike you upon entering a new restaurant, do not fear the unknown, but embrace the journey for which you are about to embark.

The standout menu items were the freshly baked selections from within the glass case at the counter.  Scott was right on the money about the muffins. We had pistachio, corn and blueberry which were all hot, moist, light and excellent. Believe me, corn muffins are easy to make badly, and if you happen to violate the golden rule of serving bakery the same day, corn muffins can be a downright danger if they get lodged in your throat without proper ventilation and irrigation.

In addition to the muffin appetizer was my order of eggs Benedict.  Getting poached eggs cooked properly is a challenge for even the best restaurants, and always a gamble to order when dining with others because if the yolks are served hard-cooked, your friends will be done eating by the time the kitchen has rectified the order.  Well, fear not fellow diners, AJ’s served perfectly cooked poached eggs! The Hollandaise sauce could have used a bit more lemon and seasoning but was still buttery and good.  The potatoes were grilled perfectly, but also could have used some salt, pepper and onion.

My experience at AJ’s was a good one and I’m thrilled to have found a new breakfast place worth revisiting. I think we all need a place where “everybody knows our name.”

AJ’s Restaurant 1365 Main Street West Warwick, RI 02893 (401) 828-4160

El Paisa

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Dave’s Review–

The name Paisa derives from the Spanish word paisano (one from the same country). The Paisas are a people who inhabit the region over northwest Colombia in the Andes. In the midst of this mountainous area, the cuisine is highly influenced by an abundance of beans, rice, corn, pork, beef, tropical fruits, potatoes and vegetables.

Colombian food is characterized by the blending of European cuisine with aspects of African and Spanish populations. Bandeja paisa, (Spanish for “Paisa Platter“) is a traditional Colombian dish that is very popular, especially in the Paisa Region. It is generally composed of one meat, carne asada (grilled steak), carne molida (finely ground grilled steak), chicharrón (fried pork rind), or filete de pescado (fillet of fish) and, rice, red beans, yucca, sweet fried plantains, a fried egg, a small white corn arepa, and sometimes chorizo (sausage).

I have to say that at first, I was a bit apprehensive about going to a Latin American restaurant equipped with only an elementary grasp of the language, culture and its cuisine. The good part was that I had no preconceptions either! My overwhelming desire to find great local food keeps me out of deep pocketed chain restaurants that sadly vie for the very real estate that privately owned establishments once dominated.

My concerns were quickly allayed. The menu was very well-organized in both Spanish and English. We were greeted warmly and sat quickly. Sandra (our server) was extremely helpful, attentive and patient.  Recommendations from the staff included the Colombian Platter (i.e. bandeja paisa). Which included a choice of meat (grilled: beef, pork, sirloin steak or chicken breast – stewed: roast beef, cow tongue, pan-fried: flank steak, or rotisserie chicken) rice, red beans, fried bacon, round maize bread, sweet fried bananas and salad ($12.00).

I’m sure Scott will get into greater detail about the specifics of what we ordered, but let me say that El Paisa and the Zuleta family should be proud of their culinary contributions to the community by offering us such an authentic, welcoming and affordable dining experience.

Scott’s Review–

Wow! What a find, Colombian food. I know absolutely nothing about it except how to use a fork, knife and delicately guide it to my palate! After one trip to El Paisa, I feel like I have taken the prerequisite to Colombian Epicurean Delights 101.

Let’s get right to the food. Shortly after arriving, a nice fellow showed up to make sure our trip to El Paisa was fruitful. Caesar was his name.  With his guidance, our table soon looked like this.

Let’s talk about this interesting side dish…

The most intriguing item I found on this dish is the fried bacon. This reminds me of the time I was in Copenhagen.  I was searching for the city’s “dish”- that universally accepted dish/delicacy of the Danish people. Aside from herring every-which-way-you-want-it, if I remember correctly, a dish of “stegt flaesk” was the recommendation. I have to tell you, when I was in one of Copenhagen’s most popular restaurants and I had just finished my “herring with 3 different marinades” appetizer, the main course of stegt flaesk showed up. I almost broke out laughing in the middle of the dining room. It appeared to me that the dish of Copenhagen was nothing more than thick cut bacon fresh out of the fryolator!  Getting back to El Paisa’s presentation of the bacon variant. I wish I could call Scotty on the Enterprise and tell him to beam El Paisa’s fried bacon (chicharrón) over to Copenhagen’s culture council. I love the way this bacon is presented. It almost resembles a “rack” of bacon if there was ever such a thing. This was fascinating. We all know bacon is a guilty pleasure. (If my Rabbi ever finds this post and then finds out I’m a certified BBQ  Judge, I will be playing this tune!). We know what a bad rap it has with respect to our circulatory system and our caloric intake. So what do I do when faced with potential life and death eating situations? I justify it. And this is what I kept telling myself after every pluck of bacon morsel off the rack well into the next 72 hours after the actual meal. “Well…I am only tearing off the “meat” of the bacon, leaving most of the fat and the rind behind.” Even I know when I’m bullshitting the bullshitter! Nonetheless, grab this wondrous piece of guilty pleasure – embrace and savor it.

For the rest of the dishes…I could go on and on, but for the chicken and steak dish… just order it. The sautéed onions were perfect on these dishes – just enough, extremely tasty and not overpowering. You put a char coating on anything (like in the picture) and I’m drawn to it like a bear is to honey. Close your eyes when your fork yields a portion to your palate. Savor the Columbian spice profile that makes up these sumptuous dishes. The fish dish was very good also – not overwhelmed by spices – delicate, flakey and alive with flavor.

The grand finale:

All I’m going to say is this….Tres Leches Cake!   Again, simply fascinating! I could launch into a diatribe about this  delicacy but I am already late with this review and David is going to kick my #*%! If I don’t get this review in before the  next scheduled Fork in the Rhode meal – which just so happens to be in 89 minutes! I will however leave you with this  recent observation:

Today is Saturday morning. Just over 5 days, 18 hours and 4 minutes since I ate this dessert at El Paisa. I was rummaging  through the fridge late last night for just a tasting of something sweet. Low and behold I happened to stumble upon a white  Styrofoam container. You guessed it –Tres Leches Cake! I had bought a slice for my wife after we finished the meal. As  usual this was sitting in the fridge about to be thrown out for rigor mortis… or so I thought.  With fear of tasting Tres  Leches Gone Bad, I preceded to close my eyes and slowly put a forkful in my mouth. I kept thinking…”5 days old in an unprotected, loose-fitting, take-out container.”

It was as if I had brought the cake home not 5 days ago but 5 minutes ago. How they infuse the milk in that cake and how it retains it along with the moisture is a mystery that I may never unlock!

El Paisa Resaurant. (401) 726-8864. Central Falls 598 Dexter St Central Falls, RI 02863